Sunday, June 18, 2006

I Miss Saigon, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, 15th to 18th Jun 2006

This is what the traffic on the roads of Ho Chi Minh City looks like. You have motorcyclists of all shapes and sizes, from the young to the old, and appallingly few traffic lights! Which renders crossing a delicate, perilous act of timing your passage across the road to perfection. But Vietnamese motorists are very used to jaywalkers. Sometimes they'll slow down for you, whereas back home I'm certain our drivers bear an evil grudge against those who disobey pedestrian rules and will run you over if you ever do.

The Reunification Palace, where the current government hosts any diplomatic visitors to the south of Vietnam. This was also the seat of the South Vietnamese government before it was trampled all over by the Communists when Saigon fell in 1975. There's two or three levels' worth of underground bunkers in there, though visitors were only permit to see the shallowest of these levels. The topmost level was the private residence of the President Thieu, the last South Vietnamese head of state, and is a veritable palace, complete with a splendid dining hall, private chapel, a ballroom and a personal helicopter parked atop the building.

The view from the top of the Palace. Can you imagine Communist tanks rampaging through the boulevard you see in the distance? Because they did, when the Americans abandoned the place thirty-one years ago, and made straight for the gates of the Reunification Palace, which they smashed right through. The grimy, faded flag which was then raised over Saigon is still displayed in a small exhibition room in the Palace, together with the personal weapon of the tank commander who raised it.

The Post Office in Saigon. Architecture was very French, for want of a more detailed description, which my poor grasp of achitectural styles cannot convey. As can be seen from the enormous portrait hanging in the centre, Uncle Ho is basically everywhere in this country. It's a little difficult denying him this recognition after what he's done for his country. Not that I'm a hopeless sycophant, but, if one discounts the more controversial aspects of his personal life, one must surely admire the fortitude with which he confronted the might of the world's greatest superpower.

Building bridges in Saigon Zoo. I love this picture, and elephants, which are very intelligent creatures. I felt rotten afterwards, having attracted the attention of the fellow for my own purposes with nothing to offer in return. But who knows, this elephant might genuinely have craved understanding!

The Hotel de Ville. Without a doubt the grandest building in Ho Chi Minh City. This used to the poshest French hotel around in Indochina, and I think the Communist Party uses it now for whatever meetings they have. Don't suppose the original French designers would have been very pleased if they had learnt its current purposes.


The heart of Pham Ngu Lao, the backpacker district in Ho Chi Minh City, lined on both sides with accommodation facilities of every level of comfort, and the usual tourist amenities. I got a haircut here for the equivalent of S$3 on the day before we flew back to Singapore, a couple of Lonely Planet guides for something like S$10 each, and a black silk tunic for S$15. Not like me to shop, but this is an excellent place to pick up a bargain or two!

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